Dash flicker is almost always the regulator. While running in neutral, flip through mode until you can see voltage displayed on the dash. Mine would spike way above 14 and then read HI right before the flicker happened. A new V/R (easy DIY install) solved it.

 

I've had similar problems on my '09 848 (as it seems many people here had)

After replacing two V/R's eventually it turned out my alternator was defective. It was generating way too much output (approximately 200% at 4000rpm) and fried my V/R's.

Replaced the alternator and installed a mosfet V/R and now everything is steady again:dance:

Long story short... Just measure the outputs before you blindly start spending your money replacing stuff. Measuring will take like 5 minutes and the removal of the left side fairing.

 

I recently replaced the battery with a Motobatt unit

That is a lithium unit?

it seems to only do this when cold, if it has been run recently or it is a really warm day (by UK standards.. approaching 20C/68F) it does not seem to do it. Actually went to film this before yesterday's good run thinking it would do it, but it did not (was around 20C). If it does not fire and just cranks like in the vid, then putting a charger/optimiser on usually fixes it near instantly (cranks faster & fires):

How far drops your voltage when cranking?

 

Thanks for the responses all

Duc_L_over_V - I have ordered up a MOSFET type regulator

Sirrah - wise advice, cheers, I've already ordered up the regulator as that seems like a common sense choice as they seem to not last on these bikes, but will also check out the generator while there. Am guessing across the generator terminals should be around 14V?

Dutch848 - no it is a glass matt type, I like the look of Li ion batteries but I am not -that- fussed with weight etc so seems a bit much. Plus when I decided to replace the previous one, Motobatt are what I know (have used them on my other bikes with many happy miles - I am a year-round commuter, currently on a BMW K1300S). Ah, I have not observed the drop when cranking, will do this the next time I need to put the optimiser on to start it.

 

Wasn't about the weight or any other fancy marketing crap for mentioning a litium battery. A typical issue with a lithium battery is hard starts whit low temperatures outside.

 

Start issue & dash flicker [Videos]

I guess I'm going to be the only one dissenting. 1098 these were common issues (VR & alternator), not as "common on the 848s". I've not had the issues and can't recall a lot. The connection from the alternator has been the issue on both models, it can get dirty, oil soaked, and burned.

But I hope ones of these works for you.

Did you have the problem. Prior to the battery switch? Did it start after the new battery?

Wouldn't a short give these symptoms? Is it possible you have some dead cells in the battery?

 

Do you have HIDs?

 

Nope, no HIDs, electrics are completely stock except for a cigarette lighter type socket in the tail - on long rides I'll power my camera via a plug in cigarette lighter type USB power source however this is only in on said occasions.

First time I put the battery in, cold start, it fired up really easily. Makes me think that it is not being charged fully now it is in the bike (highly unlikely at a cell is dead, battery is weeks old and the performance would fall much shorter than how it is currently, based on some other stories I have read). If there is a short elsewhere I think the voltage drop after switching off would we be greater e.g. it would carry on south of 11V etc surely?

Interesting point about the wires being scorched, the new regulator comes with spares of the harness-side connectors apparently: Improved Mosfet Voltage Regulator | Triumph Motorcycles | Moto-Electrical

 

***Update!***

The new regulator is working a charm, gave it a proper soak test (2hrs driving, a lot around central London, a lot of time running warm) and not a single flicker. If I have to fit one of those every 8 years or whatever I can live with that! Also seemed to run a lot better.. perhaps the voltage before was giving a weak spark? This might also explain the hesitant start if the unburnt fuel was fouling plugs up (pure conjecture here I have not owned this long enough to know it's quirks!) I have not started it since that long run to test the theory.

 

Start issue & dash flicker [Videos]

Good news glad I was wrong!

 

Good news glad I was wrong!

Well, I guess the generator could yet fry this regulator if it is spiking. I had a look under there and am not sure where I would put the multimeter electrodes to measure it's output.. but for £100 and the instant fix I'll take that chance.

PS you were right about the connectors, bit grubby, so gave them a once over and some battery terminal grease on each pin in the block before connecting up

 

I may be able to add to this topic here soon. It will be a long post. Bike has been with my tech for the past few months. This may help out someone. Will reply prob next week with updates

 

Cheers BMCKID - always good to pool the knowledge and help future riders. Mine was fine after the regulator in terms of dash flicker etc, then I discovered the slow start (for me at least) is purely temperature related. Also, the "not sparking" at start is as I found out, because the air inlet is too restrictive to allow good ignition at start so you have to just gently crack the throttle with the starter button held (then back off as soon as it fires).

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DygpdECRITQ

What is that piece right on your fuel cap, with the loop, for?